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Thursday, March 28 2024 @ 10:47 AM CDT

In ancient Syria tears were like gold

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Syrians are fond of saying that all cities have a history except Damascus — because that is where history began. On a recent trip to Syria, Bette Browne discovered an intriguing country with ancient memories and architecture
Syrians are fond of saying that all cities have a history except Damascus — because that is where history began. On a recent trip to Syria, Bette Browne discovered an intriguing country with ancient memories and architecture.


In ancient Syria they buried their dead with tears from their loved one sealed in a jar. It seemed the ultimate romantic gesture, in contrast to the more prosaic Egyptians who preferred their gold.

The warmth of the Syrians is one of the best things about travelling in the country. All in stark contrast to warnings about the dark home of one of the ‘axis of evil’. But be prepared for some people to look at you somewhat aghast when you tell them you’re planning a trip to Syria.


Language of Jesus

They may joke about it, but many see the country through George Bush’s lens and will hint about the oddity of venturing there. In my local shop the saleswoman helpfully suggested that I might be better off going to Cuba! And that was before she knew I was planning to take my six-year-old daughter in tow! Certainly, Syria is not for the faint-hearted, but then what kind of real travel is.

Syrians are fond of saying that all cities have a history except Damascus — where history began. Take the altar at a church nestled in the caves of Mallula, close to Damascus, where they still speak Aramaic, the language of Jesus.

The small altar was originally used for pagan sacrifices, and the hole in the middle where the sacrificial animal blood flowed had merely been plugged in before the altar was recycled for Christian services. This was typical of places of worship throughout Syria.


Road from Damascus

The Temple of Bel in Palmyra, about three hours’ drive from Damascus, started out in Roman times hosting pagan sacrifices. But when you explore its crumbling ruins you find a Christian cross carved out next to the pagan symbols and you discover that the Crusaders also took over the temple for a while and later still the Muslims. In fact, the last Muslim to worship at the temple only died in Palmyra earlier this year. Palmyra is sited on the old Silk Road and it was here that weary travellers rested up during their long journey to bring the treasures of China across the Mediterranean to an eager Europe.


Queen Maeve-type

It was here, too, that local warrior queen Zenobia, a descendant of Cleopatra, challenged the might of Rome. She first took possession of the whole of Syria and later conquered lower Egypt. Then, in open defiance of Rome, Zenobia had coins struck in her image.

This was too much for the emperor so he sent his army to capture her. Eventually Palmyra fell and Zenobia was carted off to Rome. With her downfall, Palmyra’s glory days were over and it was soon overtaken by Damascus as the centre of power.

You reach the city after travelling across 100 miles of desert. Suddenly, you see the palm trees on the horizon and sense the relief that ancient travellers must have felt when they finally reached this lush oasis with its date palms and vine groves.


Colourful past

Today it is a quiet, sleepy city where life goes on side-by-side with the crumbling ruins of its colourful past. You will see Bedouin passing by the Temple of Bel in their pick-up trucks bringing their goats to sell locally and haggling for the best price.

They may also be muttering darkly about my brother who, as part of an EU-funded tourism project, changed the route of their motorway that had cut through the temple!

Syria is also about mosques. For a breathtaking view of them in Damascus, drive to the top of the sandy mountain above the city at night and see the green minarets of the mosques dazzling like a thousand emeralds below.

Muslims themselves, at least in Damascus, can be a bit like a la carte Catholics —some follow the rules and some don’t. Some women take the veil very seriously, while others just wear a headscarf or leave their heads uncovered. And some, it seems, wear the veil just to get a man — at least that was how one Muslim woman explained why younger people in Damascus seem to wear the veil more than older women! In her words: “They think that wearing the veil makes it easier for them to attract a husband.”


Lots of pearls

Syria is also about pearls. Lots of them. And Damascus is the place to find them, especially in the souqs in the Old Town.

But, better still, go to the nearby hand craft market, which has far fewer tourists and much better prices.

You can easily do your Christmas shopping in advance here and end up with something like a dozen pairs of pearl earrings for the equivalent of about €40. And for about €5 you can have a three-course meal to celebrate!


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